Controlled Release Study of Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid from Multilamellar Vesicles
Introduction
Multilamellar vesicles (MLVs) are promising delivery systems in dermo-cosmetics, capable of encapsulating both hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules. Their multi-bilayer architecture and adjustable composition offer fine control over release profiles, stability, and biocompatibility. In this study, we explore how two widely used ingredients, retinol and hyaluronic acid (HA), interact with MLVs, aiming to understand and optimize their release behavior for targeted formulation development.

Methods
Multilamellar Vesicle 
Coarse-Grained 
All-Atom 
Head Type

Fatty Acid Length

Saturation Degree

Deliverables
- Custom MLV models (CG/AA)
- Adjustable lipidomics-based composition
- Drug delivery assessment
Results & Discussions
Retinol readily crosses vesicle bilayers, ensuring a controlled exchange with the environment that depends on the MLV composition, while causing minimal structural changes of the lipid membranes, even at high concentrations. In contrast, HA remains in the aqueous layers, forming hydrogen bonds with lipid head groups, which create hydration networks that strongly limit its diffusion. This makes the MLV an effective carrier for HA, able to deliver it to membrane sites where fusion can release the encapsulated molecule. As shown in the free-energy profiles, retinol exhibits a shallow, extended energy well within lipid chains, whereas HA faces a strong thermodynamic barrier to permeation.
This study was conduct by : Givaudan
Givaudan is a global leader in the development of flavours, fragrances, and bioactive cosmetic ingredients, supported by strong scientific R&D. Its research teams integrate chemistry, biochemistry, biotechnology, and sensory science to design innovative molecules with precise functional properties. The company uses advanced analytical techniques, including GC-MS, LC-MS, and receptor-based screening, to understand molecular interactions and optimize performance. Givaudan also invests heavily in green chemistry and sustainable biosynthesis to develop high-purity ingredients with reduced environmental impact. Through continuous scientific innovation, it supports the food, fragrance, and beauty industries with reliable, research-driven solutions.
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